October 25, 2009

Nevada's Online State News Journal

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
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[From (ed.) Henry T. Williams, The Pacific Tourist: Adams & Bishop's Illustrated Trans-Continental Guide (1881) pp. 214-219]
 
Nevada History:

 

214      THE PACIFIC TOURIST.

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            Stage Routes to Lake Tahoe.—A favorite route to Lake Tahoe is via Carson City. It may be more easily reached and seen on the westward tour, than to wait and include it on the eastward return.

            After a visit to Virginia City, the tourist will return to Carson City, remain over night at a good comfortable hotel, the Ormsby House, whose proprietor considers it "the highest toned hotel in Nevada," and next morning, at 8.30 m., take Benton's Stage for Tahoe,

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            To visit and make the circuit of the hike, and return to Carson will require at least 18 hours, but most tourists will find it desirable to stop at the little hotel on the opposite side of the lake, and return via Truckee, thus seeing greater variety of scenery.

            Tourists by this route to Virginia City, Carson and Tahoe, will be obliged to leave the Overland Western train at Reno, about, 11.10 P. M., and a comfortable night's rest can be enjoyed at the Railroad Hotel. In the morning a train leaves at 6.15 A. M., and arrives at Carson at 7.30; after taking one hour for breakfast, the tourist can either proceed to Virginia City and spend the day, or take immediate departure for Lake Tahoe. Private team or special stage can be engaged at Benton's by any party, for a ride to the Lake at any special time.

            On this route there is the best known of all California stage-drivers, who have reined kyuse or mustang horses,—the modest Hank Monk. His first fame was not on the platform of Faneuil Hall in oratory, but in the streets of Boston, with eight horses abreast, welt trained to the voice and whip. He has driven stage in California and Nevada, since 1852, and made the distance, between Carson and Virginia, 21 miles, in one hour and eight minutes. His appearance and gait do not indicate much energy, but he drove Horace Greeley 100 miles in 10 hours, fast enough toward the end of the journey, and as long as he can wake up his pets with a strong voice or far reaching whip, he will not fail to get his passengers through, " on time." But to the credit of others, it should be said, that California and Nevada have hundreds of drivers not less skillful and reliable than the favorite Monk.

            The route to the lake lies first south, through the Carson Valley, toward Job's Peaks and Silver Mountain, always beautiful with snow. In the clear atmosphere, the first will appear only a few miles away, but it is still more than twenty miles distant. The stage road turns west, up Clear Creek Canon, through which comes the Twenty-one Mile (V shaped) Flume of the Carson & Tahoe Lumber Company, through which 700 cords of wood, or half a million feet of mining timber can be daily delivered at Carson City from the summits of the Sierras. Along the canon are many towering, sun-burnt rocks, weather-beaten and worn into weird and fantastic shapes, and these and the swift-descending timber, splashing the water up many feet at every turn, to sparkle in the sunlight, the Carson Valley spread out below, with the Pine Nut, Walker and Sweetwater Mountains on one side, and the Sierras opposite, always attract and delight the lover of bold mountain scenery.

            Near the summit, the stage road joins the old Placerville Road, and at the summit ends a narrow gauge railroad from Glenbrook, eight miles long, used only for lumber.  The distance by the stage road is only three and one-half miles. The railroad is worked only in the summer months—after much of it has been sought out and found with shovels, and is exposed to damage and destruction from avalanches of snow or rock which come thundering down the steep sides with resistless force. Near the summit it has the enormous grade of 201 feet to the mile. This passage over the eastern summit of the Sierras is made where the range is depressed and the view, though beautiful, is far too contracted to fully gratify the traveler, Below, lies Lake Tahoe, girt with everlasting pine-clad hills whose snowy masses and evergreen foliage mingle with the deep blue of an inland sea, yet only a small portion of its beauty can be seen,

            Lake Tahoe.—This great body of fresh water, 22 miles long, on an average ten wide, about three-fourths in California, and one-fourth in Nevada, has an elevation of a mile and a quarter, and has been sounded to a depth of 1,015 feet. Through glacial action in past ages, ice must have been piled up in the valley of this lake 3,400 feet high. It never freezes, is smooth as glass and clear as crystal, permitting the trout to be seen or pebbles counted at a depth of 50 feet. Its water changes color to a beautiful emerald or almost indigo blue according to the depth, and when disturbed by the fierce mountain winds, its waves lash the shore with foaming fury.

            At Glenbrook, four steamers will be found, three of which are employed for the mills, and the fourth, the " Stanford," will be ready to convey tourists not exceeding 200 in number, around the lake.

            Glenbrook is the business center of the whole region that borders on the lake. It has four saw-mills with an aggregate capacity of five million feet per month, running 11 1-2 hours per day, also a planing mill.

            Captain Pray, the oldest settler, is a large land-owner, and much of the 900 acres in the ranche on the shores of the lake, is covered with a beautiful sod of timothy and clover. In the State there is no finer land, and as the captain and other mill-owners will rent none for saloon purposes, Glenbrook, with a summer population of 500, is a temperance town. The Glenbrook Hotel, usually kept in first-class style, is usually open each season, if not, comfortable accommodations can still be found at the Lake House, for $20 a week, without extra charge for the use of boats.

            Shakespeare Rock, a remarkable curiosity, is a bold, perpendicular rock on which the profile of the great poet's face is outlined with great accuracy.

            From Glenbrook there is a charming drive on the old Placerville Road, past Cave Rock, and around the head of the lake to Rowlands or

THE PACIFIC TOURIST.     217

Yank's. The road was constructed at great expense---a single mile near the rock, costing $40,000. The only other drive, of note, is from Tahoe City to Sugar Pine Point.

            The whole of the lake is not visible until the steamer has run out a little distance from the shore. Then its generic name is rather fitting. " Tahoe," in the Indian, signifies "big water," and is the name for ocean. The shore slopes gently, in places, for two miles to a depth of from 30 to 50 feet, then breaks sometimes abruptly as at the Bluffs of Rubicon or Observatory Point, to a depth of 600 or 800 feet; and off Sugar Pine Point is the greatest depth yet found. The water is clear as crystal, and the temperature in summer, when taken from considerable depth, very near the freezing point. The fare across the lake is $2.50, and around, $5. The steamier must lie idle half the year, and reasonable fares may seem thus high. Leaving Glenbrook for a circuit around the head of the lake, the first object of interest is Cave Rock, three and one-half miles from Glenbrook, about 400 feet high. This appears in the engraving from Moran's sketch made from the point just south of Glenbrook, and looking south and west.

            After passing the rock, and looking back, it resembles the Great South Dome of Yosemite, split in two, and the cavern, 30 feet in length, is seen about 100 feet above the ground. The line of solid masonry and bridge for the road can just be traced from the point where the artist stood. Leaving Cave Rock, Zephyr Cove is three miles south. Beautiful meadows afford fine pasturage, and being on the east side, the earliest vegetables are here grown. The mountain's wall shows plainly its broken but regular character. From the main ridge, a cross spur is thrown out, but this must again be broken into a succession of small canons and divides."

            Just south of the cave is the old Friday Ranche, well known by the pioneers who were "on the way to Washoe" and the Kingsbury Canon, through which the road crossed the mountain to Genoa. In other days, the toll receipts on the Kingsbury grade were $500 a day.

            Rowlands,--14 miles from Glenbrook, at the head of the lake, on the Old Placerville Road, was the first place of resort on the lake and originally called the Lake House. It has greatly changed from the day when J. Ross Browne was a guest, and the host "seemed to be quite worn out with his run of customers, -- from a hundred to three hundred of a night, and nowhere to stow 'em – all cussin' at him for not keepin' provisions, with but little to drink, except old fashioned tarantula-juice, warranted to kill at forty paces." It has now two stores and a post-office, with accommodations for tourists at moderate price. Lake Valley appears, from a distance, like a large, pine-covered flat. It is 14 miles long and six wide, partly covered with timber, and having much grazing land of the best quality. The stock that pastures in these fertile valleys of the lake, is all driven out before the winter snows begin. Between Rowlands and Yank's, is the terminus of Gardner's Railroad, a successful enterprise for lumbering. It will soon be extended from six to ten miles.

            Yank's—is 4 miles from Rowlands, and at the south-west end of the lake, just west of and with convenient access to Lake Valley, and is situated on a grassy sward, in a beautiful grove of tamaracks interspersed with tall pines and quaking aspens, with a pebbly beach gently sloping from Tellac Point, commanding a view of the whole lake, with convenient access to Tallac Mountain, and only two miles from Fallen Leaf Lake, another beautiful sheet of water, three miles long and one and one-half wide, at the head of which are excellent Soda Springs. Tallac Mountain is easily recognized from its long, flat summit, and may be ascended via Fallen Leaf Lake mid a steep canon. The view from the summit is one of the finest on the Continent.

            To the cast, looking across Lake Valley and the beautiful Tahoe, the eastern summits do not shut out the country beyond, for Carson Valley and much of Nevada are in sight. On the west, are the great valleys of central California, beyond them the Coast Range, and scattered among the countless snow and purple peaks of the Sierras, there nestle thirty-six lakes in sight., varying from the deep, dark blue of Tahoe to the brilliancy of silver beneath a noonday sun. Horses and boats are always to be had at Yank's. Twenty dollars per week is the price of board ; boats are charged for at city prices for carriages.       "Yank" is a soubriquet to mark the Green Mountain origin of the host, Mr. E. Clement. The tourist will need no further introduction, but should be informed that Yank spends his winters at the lake and sees snow come down the mountains and accumulate around his buildings. Of all places on the lake, none is more truly beautiful for situation, than Yank's and it is a favorite resort.

            Leaving Yank's, the steamer heads north and proceeds four miles to Emerald Bay, passing two well-rounded peaks at the foot of which is a beautiful valley, in which lies Cascade Lake. This, too, is accessible from Yank's and is one of its attractions. The point just north of the entrance to Emerald Bay was long the home of America's pride among the birds, and is named Eagle Point.

            Emerald Bay—is a gem of beauty—entered on the south side of a narrow strait, as shown on our title-page. It is two miles long by about three-fourths of a mile wide. The entrance is shoal, but the bay deep. Near the head of the bay is a little granite island, with a few small trees and shrubs, and the unfilled tomb of an

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eccentric tar—Captain Dick—who prepared the island for his own mausoleum, in which he intended to place himself on the approach of death, but his drowned body became food for the fishes, and the lonely cross marked an empty tomb.

            This charming bay is owned by Ben Holladay, Jr. His summer residence is surrounded by a grove of willows and a stream fed by eternal snows, pouring down in three successive lofty waterfalls, which rival in grace and beauty some of the smaller in Yosemite, keeps the grassy sward always green, and plays in a fountain before the door.

            The surrounding hills are so steep that they can be climbed only with great difficulty. Just opposite the island, on the north side, there is the mark of an avalanche of snow, that carried the tall pines before it like shrubs, and has left the mountain side completely bare.

            Rubicon Point and Bay, and Sugar Pine Point are next passed, going north on the way to McKinney's, ten miles from Emerald Bay.

            At McKinney's, there is no large house, but 13 cottages and pleasant surroundings. The road to Tahoe City, gives this the advantage of a pleasant drive. Board may be had at $20 a week.

            Continuing north, the steamer passes Blackwood Creek, where some towering rocks are seen whose height is scarcely comprehended, because the trees and mountains beyond are on so great a scale. Small as they seem, they are two hundred and fifty feet high, and the trees at their base not less than 200 feet.

            Ward's Bay lies north of the Creek, and Bawker's Peak, a sharp, high point, is back in the mountains.

            Tahoe City—is eight miles from McKinney's, and one of the loveliest spots on the lake. It is at the source of the Truckee River, the only outlet of the lake, and has the "Grand Central," the largest hotel on the Sierras, with accommodations for 100 guests, and kept by those excellent hosts, Bayley & Moody. This is the most convenient point of access for tourists front California. The road to Truckee is down the beautiful canon of the Truckee River, through a noble forest of pines, invigorating and delightful at every step. Sail and row-boats of all kinds may be hail at this point, and also carriages; but the prices should be agreed upon beforehand. No boats are kept for the use of the hotel.

            Board at the Grand Central may be had, varying from $3.00 to $4.00 per day, according to rooms. The view of the lake from Tahoe City is not excelled, and equalled only at Yank's and the Hot spring.

            The hotel and other accommodations are superior to all others on the lake. Besides the Grand Central, there is the Tahoe House, kept by Captain Pomin.

            Tourists who desire to spend only one day in visiting the lake, take stages at this point to Truckee, 12 miles down the river.

            Trout.—At Tahoe City there is a trout establishment of much interest ; and another, on a larger scale, on the river half way to Truckee Station. The water is admitted to a series of ponds, each pond being appropriated to trout of a different size. The eggs are taken during May and June, when the fish ascend the river and the creeks, to spawn. The eggs are stripped from the female and impregnated by stripping the male fish into the same vessel in which the eggs are contained, and then placed on inclined shelves or tables where about half an inch of water runs gently, but steadily over them. The temperature of the water affects the time of hatching, and the desire is to have the water as cold as possible at the expense of time to produce the hardier fish. One trout contains about 7,000 spawn. Twenty-five cents is charged for admission to the fishery, and the privilege of fishing in the ponds granted for twenty-five or fifty cents a fish, according to the size.

            The fishing in the lake is done by trolling. Spoon-hooks are sometimes used, but early in the season it is necessary to have some shining device to attract attention besides a minnow on the hook. The fisheries have been quite successful in hatching fish, but not profitable. At first nearly all died ; now nearly all are raised. The young fish are nourished for several days after birth by a portion of the egg front which they are hatched remaining attached to them till it is absorbed, and then are fed on mashed fish, the yolks of eggs and liver, and the large trout are fed on suckers and white fish caught in the lakes with seines. Of course no trout are caught in seines, for this is contrary to law.

            After they have grown to weigh several pounds, they will increase at the rate of a pound a year. The quantity caught in a year can not be estimated. Many are never sent to market, and they are caught in both the lake and the river as well as in Donner Lake.  From the Truckee River alone, 170,000 pounds were caught last season, half of which were shipped to Virginia City.

            In the lake there are at least four kinds, two of which are most commonly known. These are the silver trout and the black trout. The silver trout are most highly esteemed, are always taken in deep water, and attain a size of thirty-two pounds. The silver trout of Donner Lake grow from eight to ten pounds, and those in the river are not so large. The black trout run up the creeks sooner in the spring than the silver, but the latter can pass over greater obstacles than the former.

            The white fish found in the lake are quite unlike those of the Great North American Lakes.

            While the tourist who merely crosses the lake from Glenbrook to Tahoe or vice versa, or who

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desires to reach the Central Pacific Railroad, with the loss of one day only will not make the entire circuit of the lake ; others will visit the north end, and some may prefer this alone. Continuing around from Tahoe City, Burton's or Island Farm is two miles from Tahoe City. It is a lovely spot, with summer green meadows and pebbly beach, and accommodates at reasonable cost, 25 or 30 people. It is a favorite resort for California clergymen needing rest.

            Burton's is connected with Tahoe City by a carriage toad, and is not too far to exercise at the oars of a small boat.

            Passing around the north end of the lake, there is next, Observatory Point, where the great telescope of James Lick was expected to be erected, and beyond this is Carnelian Bay, and Carnelian Beach, so called from fine specimens of chalcedony here found. Here is Doctor Bournes' hygienic establishment.

            Beyond this, are Agate bay and then Campbell's Hot Springs, ten miles from Glenbrook, and on Boundary Point, because it marks the dividing line between California and Nevada.

            The water boils out in several places in great volume. The hotel is comfortable; the charge $3 a day ; the entire lake is seen from the house, and the baths are an advantage to be had nowhere else on the lake. There is a stage from this point, to Truckee, and the stages from Tahoe City will also carry passengers thence to the springs.

            Fishing and boating and driving can be enjoyed at pleasure, and in the hills there are a few grouse, quail, deer, and bear, but game is not plentiful.

            The Lumber and Trees of the Lake Region.—The logs which are brought down to the lake at various points are towed to Glenbrook in V-shaped booms, from 50 to 70 feet wide at one end, and about 150 feet long, averaging 200,000 feet of lumber.

            The sugar pine is the most valuable, then time yellow pine. The black, or "bull" pine was long despised, but is now highly prized for its strength. It reaches, in California, a diameter of 15, and height of 200 feet; about the lake, a diameter of 10 feet. The leaves are of a dark green color, but the cones are enormous—sometimes 18 inches long. The wood is fine grained and solid, soft and clear.

            The yellow is not quite so large, seldom exceeding 10 feet in diameter, and has bark furrowed into plate-like sections, six or eight inches wide, and from 12 to 20 inches long.  The "bull" pine is a favorite with the woodpecker for storing his acorns, not in the hollow trees, but by drilling holes in the bark, and fitting an acorn into each. Old woodmen say the bird never makes a misfit, and selects, the first time, a nut which will exactly fill the hole he has drilled. In the valleys of California, nearly all large trees are utilized in this way.  There are two kinds of fir, the white and the red. The latter called also the Douglass fir, is a good strong timber ; the former is the least esteemed in the market.

            Other pines of the Sierras are interesting, but notice of all must be omitted except the Nut or "Digger" pine, so called from a sweet or oily seed forming a staple article of food for the Indians, but it does not grow in the high Sierras. It is dwarfish and scraggy, without one moist trunk, but dividing up into several. It is said that this is so liable to "draw" while seasoning, that miners who are compelled to use it for building their cabins, were not surprised to see them turn over two or three times in the course of the summer.

            As two daily passenger trains leave Reno for San Francisco, one arriving via Vallejo in eleven and a quarter hours, and the other via Stockton in seventeen and a half hours, from the time of leaving Truckee, the tourist economizing time, will take the former, leaving Truckee at midnight.

            By leaving at 3 A.M., daylight will soon follow in the summer months, and the fine scenery of the Sierras be more enjoyed.

            To see the mountains, the best plan is to stop at the summit where there is another of the first-class hotels of James Cardwell, and gain the views from the peaks near by, and then descend the mountain by a freight train, leaving the summit at 5.30 A. M., and reaching Sacramento the same evening, at 7.45. For this, one must be willing to exchange the Palace car for the caboose, and accept delay in exchange for the leisurely enjoyment of the most wonderful railroad scenery in the world.